Thursday, August 23, 2012

vengayasambar


This could be a repeat, but certainly mouth watering.

Vatha Kuzhambhu and Vengaya Sambar, demonstrate the Tamil Brahmin's
culinary skill at its sharpest best.

Vatha Kuzhambu and Vengaya sambar, like Sehwag and Sachin, would always
dominate the scene and that is the reason perhaps they are not served on
plantain leaves in marital lunches. Any other sambar, needs the support of
a thayir pacchadi, avial, olan, paruppu usili and kara-kari, to survive the
lunch. Remove the support of the various vegetables save one and sambar
would surrender at once - a roaring lion, only when there is a retinue
around. Not Vengaya Sambar. It can stand its ground in testing time. When
Vengaya Sambar is around, like one's own wife, who would glance at Avial or
pacchadi, mere coquettes, though they may have inviting looks?

"In small things we just beauty see, In short measure, life may perfect
be", says Shakespeare in one of his sonnets, underlying the fact that it is
the small vengayam that we are talking about. In Travancore, small vengayam
is called ulli or Eerulli. The larger one doesn't deserve a treatise to
write about.

Vatha Kuzhambu and Vengaya Sambar can conquer the world with the help of a
single vegetable to play a subordinate role, as Kapil Dev played that world
conquering game, with Syed Kirmani at the other end. When Concerns in
Mumbai served Vengaya Sambar with Potato kara-kari on Thursdays, a
serpentine queue with saliva oozing out, would wait for hours. If no
vegetable is available, Vatha Kuzhambu can still hold its sway with the
help of a roasted appalam. Sorry my Palakkad brothers and sisters.  Our
pappadam cannot measure upto the expectations of Vatha Kuzhambu. They are
not made for each other. It is always ensnared by the amorous advances of
appalam.

I prepared only vetta kuzhambhu and chutta appalam today, a Thanjavur Mami,
would murmur in humility, oblivious of the fact that the aroma from her
kitchen has already reached eight houses ahead in her Agraharam. Chutta
appalam, like chundaikai  or karela, can also immerse in Vatha kuzhambhu,
reiterating the fact that it is part of the household and not a mere
catalytic agent.

And yet, we deny them their legitimate place in marriage lunches; instead
we relegate them to the light dinner on the marriage day when all the
ceremonies are over and only a few are around. Why treat your best batsmen
as tailenders? Is it because all other vegetables have ganged up to isolate
Vatha Kuzhambhu and Vengaya Sambar, so that they too are noticed? Would it
be a blasphemy if we serve Vatha Kuzhambhu and Vengaya Sambar in saddhies
of Sasta preetis, instead of several vegetables and varieties of payasams?
After all payasams were dictated by palate and not prescribed by Shastras.

Idli and Mulagapodi are always made for each other. And yet, Chutney and
Vengaya Sambar are not looked upon as the 'the other woman'. What more,
Vengaya Sambar can also lend legitimacy to Idli and dosai and take them to
dizzy heights. if Vengaya Sambar and Potato Karakari is unparalleled,
Koorkai, Chenai and Banana also go well with it. It does not need
varieties of vegetables or pathnis as it strictly follows Lord Sriram. It
chooses one and remains loyal. However, Vatha Kuzhambhu is too strong a
personality to entertain Idli and Dosai. It prefers to stand alone or
mingle with a few lesser mortals. It is a little complex personality and
yet has popular appeal.

One needs the arbitrating skills of a Solomon Papaiah to decide whether
Vengaya Sambar emerges out better when prepared with Sambar Powder or
ground coconut and other ingredients. To put in Brahminical tamil, whether
Podi potta sambar scores over arachuvitta sambar, if Vengayam is the main
ingredient?  I am for one, is a protagonist of vengaya sambar, prepared
with sambar powder. The vengayam here is endowed with a rare ability, as
the overcast sky does to a swing bowler. When ground coconut is used, the
sharpness of Vengayam is bludgeoned as the effectiveness of a pace bowler
is, in a flat wicket. Fortunately, Vatha Kuzhambhu does not face such a
threat from coconut. I may be torn into pieces by some of the well known
professional cooks or Mamas and Mamis from Palakkad for this sacrilegious
statement. It is availability that dictates the ingredients and develop the
taste.

One major area where Vatha Kuzhambhu differs from its brother Vengaya
Sambar is in longevity. As some of its ingredients are basically
preservatives, Vatha Kuzhambhu is blessed with a longer shelf life. Vengaya
sambar suffers from Balarishtams if not alpa-ayusu.

Vengaya Sambar, as the very name suggests, leans on good quality small
onions, for survival. Vatha Kuzhambhu does not need such singular support.
It needs varieties of ingredients and deft handling which is available
aplenty in Thanjur and Trichi. ( yours truly is a poor soul from
Travancore).

It is not Sandhya Vandhanam or various other rituals that  bench mark
brahminical eminence. Ability to prepare, enjoy and evaluate quality Vetta
Kuzhambhu and Vengaya Sambar that marks brahminical endowments.

Let young mothers and fathers dissuade their children from Pav Bhaji and
Pani poori and instead eulogise them, if they show proclivity towards
Vengaya Sambar and Vatha Kuzhambhu.

And finally, let me make a Marxian appeal. Brahminical youth, unite! You
have nothing to lose except polluted and contaminated pav bhajis and pani
poories and a world with Vatha Kuzhambhu and Vengaya Sambar to gain.

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